Zero Bridge, one of the most iconic bridge in Srinagar, has a long history and mystery surrounding its name, with most of the conspiracy theorist making us believe that it was named so because it was a bridge built before the First Bridge- Amira Kadal, built before Zero Bridge and named the First Bridge, so naturally the bridge built on the upstream side of the Jhelum just two kilometres ahead of the First Bridge was named as Zero Bridge. Actually before I forget, let’s all thank the Indians for inventing the Zero. In many ways it represents the story of Kashmir. A pinnacle in bridge design of the olden days, stunning in beauty, even finds mention in one of Agha Shahid’s touching poem from The Country without a Post Office.
From Zero Bridge
A shadow chased by
Searchlights is running
Away to find its body. On the
Edge
Of the cantonment, where
Gupkar road ends,
It shrinks almost to nothing, is
Nothing by interrogation gates
So it can slip, unseen, into the
Cells:
Drippings from a suspended
Burning tyre
Are falling on the back of a
Prisoner,
The naked boy screaming,
“I know nothing”.
Like Kashmir, it is also in shambles today. I remember during the early 90’s how memorable were the trips I took on the bridge, usually commuting to or from my school. The ancient Chinar’s fully of migratory birds in the Emporium gardens, braying, all at once producing a deafening sound. The bridge had formed hump due to its age and the prehistoric Matador would bump up and down on them. One of the most visited places would be the Zero Inn just across the NC office. The Sikh owner would keep smiling every time I saw him, and the place would be bustling with hordes of people trying to have a softy.
Where are those days gone? Ah!
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